At a time when competition from artificial silk is the main problem facing the Indian silk industry, Kashmir's silk production has retained a prominent place among those producing the highest quality of fabric.
Government Silk Filatures Solina in Rambagh, Srinagar, is one of the oldest silk factories in India. It was established by Sir Thomas Wardle, president of the Silk Association of Great Britain, in 1897.
Once filled with thousands of workers, the factory remained defunct for more than a decade. “More than 1,600 workers lost their jobs due to its closure,” said manager Ghulam Mohammad Bhat.
The Union Territory, in an attempt to revive the silk industry and generate employment in the region, reopened it for the production of silk. The factory gained heritage status in 2017, after which it was upgraded with modern machinery. Bhat said that modern machinery has increased manifold the production and quality of the silk. “Though we have only 50 workers, the quantity and quality of silk produced is better than the past,” Bhat said.
He added that in 2021, they purchased 60 thousand kilos of cocoons for production and that demand for raw material is increasing year upon year. Bhat said yarn produced in factory is transported to Government Silk Weaving Factory Rajbagh for final processing.
The factory had great importance in Srinagar. According to a noted writer and historian, Zareef Ahmad Zareef, the loud sound of the boiler steam siren from the factory at 8:00 am every day was considered a morning call to start the day. “There were at least 4,000 workers in that factory. I think it was one of the largest industries in Jammu and Kashmir,” said Zareef.
Meet the crafters
Abdul Rashid, 58, from Budgam’s Wadoora, is one of the most senior employees at Rajbagh Silk Factory. Rashid joined the industry in 1982. His hands have woven lakhs of metres of silk.
“Once upon a time, we could weave over 25,000 metres of silk a month to meet demand. That has now reduced to 2,000 metres per month,” Rashid, who is set to retire next year, said ruefully.
“The only positive today is that the availability of the best quality yarn which has improved the quality of fabric,” he added.
Rashid said quantity of production was massive earlier but the quality of the final product was not up to par. “But now the quality is world class,” Rashid said.
Bashir Ahmad of Srinagar’s Chanapora is another senior employee of the Rajbagh Silk Factory. The 59-year-0ld has spent nearly 39 years in this profession and professes to be quite happy with his job.
“When I joined this factory in 1982 I had no idea about this job,” Ahmad said. “But over the years, I’ve gained expertise and insight. I love this work. I plan to continue even after hitting retirement age.” Ahmad said his expertise will allow him to get a job at a private firm after he retires from his work at the Rajbagh Silk Factory.
Bashir and Rashid said that the factory, with the help of modern looms, has the capacity to produce lakhs meters of silk a month. “Good marketing for our product can boost Kashmir’s silk industry and generate employment for thousands directly or indirectly associated with the silk trade,” they said.
Silk Weaving Factory
Silk Weaving Factory at Rajbagh is Kashmir’s second oldest silk factory. It was established in 1937 by the Maharaja Hari Singh. According to the officials, the factory remained closed for many years after being damaged by the 2014 floods.
Zameer Syed Allaie, manager of the Silk Weaving Factory, said that the factory has now been revived and its machinery upgraded.
“We have procured new machinery with the help of World Bank incentives which has upgraded the quality as well as the quantity of the production,” Zameer said. “Earlier, we were able to produce only silk fabric, but with the help of new machinery we can produce at least 12 different varieties of silk fabric including Chinon, Chiffon, Charmeuse, Satin, and Crepe.”
“Due to the greater demand in the market, we have increased our production, and that has directly generated employment,” Zameer said. “Apart from our 80 employees, we have gainfully employed more than 20 educated youths in this factory. We are sure that we will be able to provide mor job opportunities.”
He said that the factory has a mission to produce at least 12,000 metres of silk fabric every month, a target they may increase in future. “Initially, we produced 2,000 to 3,000 metres of silk fabric per month. That’s now increasing with every passing month,” said Zameer.
According to Zameer, the revival funds by the World Bank not only revived the factory but also maintained its critical heritage infrastructure. Zameer said that they are weaving 100 percent pure silk mulberry, and thousands of families, directly and indirectly, are associated with the cocoon business.
Kashmir’s silk history
Sericulture is one of Kashmir’s traditional industries. There are no accurate records of how and when this industry originated in Kashmir. However, there is mention of silk and mulberry tree in Rajtarangini, the oldest written chronicle of Kashmir.
Historians say Kashmir has a rich history of silk production and trade. Silk was produced, organised and exported to the UK since 1890s. “For long, the mulberry silk produced in the Valley was taken to faraway western countries. The precious silk fabric and silk yarn were even exported to the entire British Empire,” said noted writer and historian Zareef Ahmad Zareef.
Zareef said that the silk industry was one of the main revenue earners for during the Maharaja Rule. “Kashmir had its indigenous races of silkworm and would produce best quality cocoons in the world. Mulberry cocoon reared in Jammu and Kashmir is of the superior quality to China and other countries,” Zareef said.
Zareef added that during the Maharaja Rule, there was a tradition of wearing silk turbans, kurtas and sarees durin marriages and other celebrations. “The rich would keep a silk cloth on their shoulders. It was considered as a symbol of royalty. Historically, silk was used primarily by the upper classes,” Zareef said.
He said that majority of the Muslims in Kashmir avoided silk clothes because of the religious restrictions (silk clothes and gold are prohibited for males in Islam), but that brides were given special silk dresses for weddings.
from Firstpost India Latest News https://ift.tt/32durwu
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